Chikankari kurtis are beautiful embroidered tunics and a staple in Indian ethnic fashion. In this guide, I will walk you through everything you need to know about chikankari kurti - their history, embroidery styles, how to style them, maintenance tips, and where to shop for authentic designs.
What is Chikankari Embroidery?
Chikankari is a delicate embroidery style that originated in Lucknow, India over 500 years ago. It involves using white thread to sew intricate patterns onto fine cotton or muslin fabrics. The word "chikankari" comes from the Hindi word "chikan" meaning embroidery.
This embroidery art was patronized by the Nawabs of Awadh and has been passed down for generations within artisan families in Lucknow. It is one of the most well-known hand embroidery styles, recognizable for its white-on-white threadwork. Lean about the evolving world of kurti fashion
Different Types of Chikankari Stitching
There are primarily six main stitches used in chikankari embroidery:
Bakhiya: A popular stitch for outlining floral and leafy patterns
Hool: Tiny circular designs stitched close together to form a perforated effect
Jaali: Net-like patterns forming geometric shapes
Phanda: Criss-cross stitch for filling forms
Murri: Dense stitch for forming patterns
Ghas Patti: Delicate stemmed vine-like patterns
Styles of Chikankari Kurtis
Chikankari kurtis come in three main cuts:
Anarkali Style: Flared kurtis with long, flowy fabrics, embroidery across bodice
Straight Cut: Kurtis with equal lengths, clean lines, contemporary chikankari patterns
Kalidar/Sharara Style: Umbrella flared kurtis resembling sharara bottoms or ghagra
How to Style Chikankari Kurtis
The best part about chikankari kurtis is that they are extremely versatile! You can style them for both everyday wear or special occasions:
Pair with skinny jeans, leggings or palazzos for a contemporary look
Layer over a slip dress to make a unique fusion outfit
For traditional wear, team with gharara pants or lehengas
Use contrasting dupattas to accentuate the white embroidery
Complete the look with jhumkas, Kolhapuri chappals or mojaris
Let the intricate needlework take centerstage by keeping other accessories minimal
Caring Tips for Chikankari Kurtis
Since chikankari work involves delicate and intricate hand embroidery, the fabrics require special care:
Always dry clean chikankari outfits
Store in fabric covers away from moisture and heat
Avoid brushing or bleaching the fabrics
Do not wring or twist the garment while washing
Soak whites in salty water for 5 minutes before washing
Iron inside out on medium heat
Where to Buy Authentic Chikankari Kurtis
You can buy high quality hand-embroidered chikankari kurtis from:
Local artisan outlets in Lucknow
Boutiques that work directly with karigars
Crafts museums stores supporting local artists
Reputable online platforms that source directly from UP
When investing in heirloom pieces, check for certificate of authenticity
I hope this guide gives you all the tips you need to add chikankari kurtis into your wardrobe! Let me know in the comments if you have any other questions.
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