Chikankari kurtis are embroidered tunics with intricate and delicate white threadwork that originate from Lucknow, India. While chikankari is quintessentially Indian, it also has a following in Pakistan where local artisans have adapted the embroidery to create styles unique to their country.
In this blog, we compare some key differences between Indian and Pakistani chikankari kurti in terms of designs, fabrics, motifs and styles. Read on to find out more!
Fabrics Used
The base fabric plays an important role in how chikankari embroidery looks and holds up.
Indian chikankari has traditionally used fine muslin or soft cotton fabrics like tanchoi, chikan and mulmul. This allows the detailed threadwork with tiny, uniform stitches to shine through.
Pakistani chikankari kurti initially involved coarse fabrics like lawn or voile to create a striking visual contrast between clothing and embroidery. But over time, designers began incorporating finer fabrics as well. Nevertheless, thicker fabrics still find more dominance.
Colors Used
Classic Indian chikankari exclusively uses white thread on white fabric. This monochromatic scheme highlights the beauty of the intricate patterns like no other color can.
Pakistani chikankari often incorporates color accents and contrasts along with the white base. Embroidery motifs use vibrant colored threads like yellow, green, pink and red to depict florals and geometric shapes. The use of color adds novelty to traditional white-on-white chikankari.
Motifs and Patterns
Much of Indian chikankari takes inspiration from Mughal era designs of florals, leaves and vines. Motifs like jasmine, lotus, lilies are created by weaving together delicate jaalis, rows of fine darning and intricate notched details. There is also minimal incorporation of geometric patterns.
Pakistani chikankari uses a diverse set of embroidered motifs beyond florals such as geometric shapes, paisley (buteh), architectural designs and calligraphic accents. The motifs are often larger and bolder. Pakistani chikankari also reflects Central Asian tribal influence in its designs.
Wearing Styles
Indian chikankari kurtas typically come in simple cuts like anarkalis or straight lines with side slits for breezy airflow. They are paired with churidars, pants or skirts.
Pakistani designers have experimented more with silhouettes by adding layers, ruffles, frills and extra length to create unique looks. The kurtas are styled with everything from jeans, palazzos, and cigarette pants to lehengas, ghararas and shararas.
Cost of Authentic Pieces
High quality hand embroidered chikankari pieces take skilled artisans months to create. An intricately crafted Indian chikankari kurta can cost between ₹5,000 to ₹60,000 based on the fabric, embroidery density, knots per square inch and stitches used.
Likewise, authentic Pakistani chikankari kurtas too can be expensive depending on the craftsmanship involved. They are priced in the range of Rs. 20,000 to Rs. 200,000 (Pakistani rupee). That converts to approximately USD 115 to USD 1,150.
Where to Shop from
Lucknow remains the hub for the finest Indian chikankari accompanied with authentication certificates to confirm the genuineness of the pieces. Reputed online platforms like Craftsvilla also retail authentic chikankari apparel.
In Pakistan, chikankari boutiques have cropped up in major cities and metro areas. Karachi, in particular, houses many outlets and designers specializing in contemporary chikankari styles. Learn about the world of stylish kurti
Conclusion
While Indian and Pakistani chikankari kurtis share the common base of delicate untainted white embroidery, they differ vastly in motifs, fabrics, colors and wearing aesthetics. Yet they both stay true to upholding this ancient craft passed on for generations within the families of ustads. Their efforts continue to make chikankari relevant and in demand across borders.
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