The saree, a single piece of fabric typically measuring 5 to 9 yards in length, is draped across the body in myriad styles by women all over India. Beyond its basic structure, the incredible variety of fabrics, patterns, weaving techniques, embroidery styles and regional specialties make the world of Indian sarees unimaginably diverse and vibrant.
Fabrics Used in Sarees
The fabric of the saree determines its look, feel and drape. Here are some of the main fabrics used:
Silk: One of the most luxurious fabrics, silk sarees like Banarasi, Kanjeevaram and Paithani are coveted for their soft drape and sheen. Mulberry, tussar, eri and muga are common silk varieties used.
Cotton: Cool and airy cotton sarees like Chanderi, Mangalagiri and Kota are lightweight summer staples. Textures range from translucent weaves to crisp, dense handlooms.
Chiffon: Diaphanous chiffon sarees drape beautifully and are perfect for evening wear. Chiffon is often embellished with zari, embroidery or prints.
Georgette: Georgette sarees have a characteristic crinkled texture that gives them a lightweight feel. They come printed, embroidered or in traditional weaves.
Crepe: Crepe makes for sarees that are easy to drape. Khadi and silk crepe are among the popular options for daily and formal wear.
Blends: Fabrics like Cotton-silk, tussar-cotton and poly-silk combine properties of different fibers for comfort and richness.
Weaving and Embroidery Techniques
Weaving traditions unique to different regions characterize many sarees:
Ikat: Orissa's Sambalpuri sarees use ikat's resist-dyeing method to create intricate motifs.
Jamdani: Featuring delicately woven floral patterns in the weft, Jamdanis from West Bengal are treasured for their sheer textures.
Banarasi: Brocade weaving combines with zari work on the famed Banarasi sarees of Varanasi.
Kanjivaram: Contrasting coloured silk threads are woven into sumptuous gold brocaded borders on these sarees.
Kasuti: Karnataka's Kantha sarees bear exquisite Kasuti hand embroidery with stitch styles passed down generations.
Chikankari: Fine shadow work and other stitches meticulously adorn Lucknow's chikankari cotton and muslin sarees.
Zardozi: Ornate gold and silver zardozi embroidery embellishes regal Banarasi, Tanjore and Mysore silk sarees.
Signature Regional Sarees of India
Each region has its own saree speciality:
North: Jamdani (West Bengal), Chanderi(Madhya Pradesh), Banarasi (Uttar Pradesh), Chikankari (Lucknow)
South: Kanjivaram (Tamil Nadu), Kasavu (Kerala), Coimbatore Cotton (Tamil Nadu), Gadwal (Telangana)
West: Paithani (Maharashtra), Bandhani (Gujarat), Patola (Gujarat)
East: Tant (West Bengal), Baluchari (West Bengal), Sambalpuri (Odisha), Bomkai (Odisha)
North East: Mekhela Chadar (Assam), Wangkhei Phee (Manipur), Dhakai (Assam)
Modern and Fusion Sarees
Today's sarees blend traditional techniques with contemporary design:
Digital Prints: Computerized prints create graphic motifs, abstract patterns and photorealistic images on modern sarees.
Stylish Pre-Stitched Drapes: Belt sarees, dhoti drapes and lehenga sarees are pre-stitched styles that ease wearing sarees for working women.
Fusion Fabrics: Unconventional fabrics like georgette, crepe, velvet and even denim are being used to design sarees that merge ethnic and western fashion.
Bollywood Inspiration: Deepika Padukone's green sequined saree in Om Shanti Om spurred a whole fashion trend that endures.
The inexhaustible variety of Indian sarees, from elegant heirloom weaves to trendy modern drapes, makes them an eternal favorite. Sarees manage to beautifully blend tradition with contemporary sensibilities.
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