Chikankari is a delicate and artistic embroidery form from Lucknow, India. The beautiful motifs woven with untwisting white threads on fine fabrics like muslin, cotton, or voile have a unique elegance. When this intricate craft is used to embellish simple kurtis, it can transform them into pieces of heirloom apparel. Here is a guide to appreciating the splendor of Chikankari kurta.
The Origins of Chikankari
Chikankari has its origins in the Mughal era and was patronized by the Nawabs of Oudh in the 18th century. The word means embroidery done using a pointed bamboo stick called 'kari'. It was the skilled craftswomen who began practicing it for ornamental purposes on fabrics, accessories, and muslin scarves. As interests grew, Lucknow emerged as the hub for the Chikankari industry.
Fabrics Used in Chikankari Kurtis
The base fabric of Chikankari kurti is important to complement the delicate threadwork. Lightweight, breathable fabrics like cotton, muslin, voile in off-white, pastel hues are ideal. The subtleness allows the embroidery to truly stand out. Craftsmen recommend soft, thin fabrics like Dhakai muslin or tanchoi silk for the signature translucency. Avoid heavy silks or dense fabrics that could overpower the needlework.
Distinctive Styles of Chikankari Stitches
It is the variety of stitches that sets Chikankari apart. Some popular ones include:
Bakhiya: Dense, shadow work using untwisted white thread
Hool: Fine details stitched using wholes instead of outlines
Taipchi: Thin running stitches to outline the motifs
Pechni: Chain-stitch flower or leaf designs
Murri: Delicate dots or grids created with tiny knots
Jaalis: Net-like patterns of geometric or floral shapes
Phanda: Broad, overlapping floral motifs
Zanjeera: Chain-stitches joined like braided patterns
These stitches are painstakingly crafted using a simple embroidery needle. The simplicity of outline patterns created just with threadwork is mesmerizing.
Styling Chikankari Kurtis
Chikankari kurtis have a soft, vintage charm best complemented by minimal styling:
Stick to neutral or pastel palettes for bottom wear like pants, churidars or skirts
Use simple silver oxidized jewellery to accentuate, avoiding loud colors
Don a sheer chiffon dupatta with handwoven edges
Wear Kolhapuri sandals or ethnic mojaris in tan or white
Pin up hair loosely or in a neat bun to highlight the kurti work
Choose potlis or embroidered pouches instead of jholas
Apply natural makeup with pink lips and lots of kajal
This unfussy styling allows the delicate Chikankari embroidery to take centerstage. The overall result is graceful, feminine and artistic.
Where to Buy Authentic Chikankari Kurtis
While machine-made Chikankari is common, true connoisseurs recommend buying from the artisans in Lucknow. The city is still home to many skilled karigars adept at this style. Look for pieces crafted from quality fabrics and genuine untwisted threads.
Reputable stores promoting Chikankari artists to look for include Gulabo by Meera and Rishabh, Frontier Raas, andTextiles and Crafts Palace. Online sites like Jaypore, Craftsvilla, and Mirraw curate authentic pieces too. You can even custom order designs from boutiques in Lucknow.
Caring for Chikankari Kurtis
Chikankari is lovingly crafted by hand, so the pieces require gentle care:
Dry clean or hand wash in cold water using a mild detergent
Avoid vigorously scrubbing or wringing the garment
Fold and store the kurti in cloth bags to prevent snags
Iron very gently on the reverse side on a medium setting
Avoid bleach, chemical treatments or dryers to retain the sheen
When cared for meticulously, a Chikankari kurti will last years and can even be passed down as an heirloom.
Chikankari elevates a simple kurti into an exquisite work of art. When shopping for kurtis, take time to discover this magical world and add true craftsmanship to your wardrobe - these heritage pieces are meant to be treasured.
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